Pastel de Tres Leches

• 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted twice
• 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 5 large eggs, separated and at room temperature
• 1 cup granulated sugar, divided
• 1/3 cup whole milk, room temperature
• 1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 can evaporated milk
• 1 can sweetened condensed milk
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 1/4 cups heavy cream, cold, for whipping
• 3 tbsp powdered sugar
• ground cinnamon, for dusting

1. 1

   Heat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Butter a 23x33 cm baking dish and line the bottom with parchment so the cake releases cleanly later.

2. 2

   Sift the flour and baking powder together into a bowl, then set aside. In another bowl, whisk the egg yolks with half the sugar until pale and thick, about 3 minutes — you want the mixture to fall in a slow ribbon when you lift the whisk. Beat in the milk and 1/2 tsp of the vanilla.

3. 3

   In a clean, grease-free bowl, whip the egg whites on low speed until frothy, then increase to medium and beat until soft peaks form. With the mixer running, add the remaining sugar a tablespoon at a time, then raise the speed to high and beat until you get stiff, glossy peaks that stand straight when you pull the beater out. Under-whipping gives you a dense sponge that won't soak properly.

4. 4

   First, lighten the yolk mixture by folding in about a third of the whipped whites. Then, fold in the flour mixture and the remaining whites in alternating additions to maintain the batter's airiness. Add about half the flour, fold it in, then half the remaining whites, and repeat. Stop folding as soon as no white streaks remain.

5. 5

   Pour the batter into the prepared dish and bake 25 to 30 minutes, until the top is golden and a toothpick comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the dish for 15 minutes — if you pierce it while it is piping hot the crumb can collapse under the liquid.

6. 6

   While the cake cools, whisk together the evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, 1 cup heavy cream, and the remaining 1 tsp vanilla until completely smooth. This is your three-milk soak.

7. 7

   Poke the warm cake all over with a fork or skewer, going all the way to the bottom in tight rows. Pour the milk mixture slowly over the entire surface, letting it absorb before adding more. It will look like too much liquid — it is not. Every hole you poked is a channel for the milk to travel through.

8. 8

   Cover the dish and refrigerate at least 8 hours, ideally overnight. The cake needs that time to drink everything in and settle into the soft, creamy texture that makes tres leches what it is.

9. 9

   When you are ready to serve, whip the cold cream with the powdered sugar to soft peaks. Spread it evenly over the top of the cake and dust with ground cinnamon. Cut into squares and serve cold — here, the soak is everything.

10. 10

    If the whipped cream weeps while it sits, gently blot the surface with a paper towel to absorb any liquid. Serve within two days; after that the sponge gets heavy and the cream loses its body.

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