Wheat and Ricotta Pastiera, Baked Low and Slow

• 300 g Italian Tipo 00 pastry flour, sifted
• 150 g butter, cold and cubed
• 80 g granulated sugar
• 2 whole eggs, lightly beaten
• 500 g whole milk ricotta, drained overnight in cheesecloth
• 300 g granulated sugar, for the filling
• 200 g cooked wheat berries, or pre-cooked grano cotto
• 250 ml whole milk
• 30 g butter, for cooking the wheat
• 1 tbsp lemon zest, freshly grated from an unwaxed lemon
• 1 tbsp orange zest, freshly grated
• 4 whole eggs, for the filling
• 2 egg yolks, for the filling
• 1 tbsp orange flower water, good quality
• 1 tsp vanilla extract, pure not imitation
• 100 g candied citron, diced small
• pinch of salt
• powdered sugar, for finishing

1. 1

   The night before, set the ricotta in cheesecloth over a bowl and let it drain in the fridge. Wet ricotta will flood your filling and the pastiera will weep in the oven — this step is not optional.

2. 2

   If starting from dry wheat berries, soak them overnight in cold water, then simmer until tender, about 90 minutes. If using pre-cooked grano cotto, rinse it and move on.

3. 3

   Make the pasta frolla: work the flour, cold butter cubes, sugar, and a pinch of salt together with your fingertips until it resembles wet sand. Add the two beaten eggs and bring it together into a ball — knead as little as humanly possible. Wrap it and rest it in the fridge for at least an hour.

4. 4

   Cook the wheat: combine the wheat, milk, butter, lemon zest, and orange zest in a small pot. Simmer gently for about 20 minutes, stirring often, until the milk absorbs and the wheat turns creamy. Let it cool completely.

5. 5

   For the filling, beat the drained ricotta with the 300g sugar until smooth. Add the four whole eggs and two yolks, one at a time, beating well after each. Mix in the cooled wheat, orange flower water, vanilla, and candied citron. The aroma of the orange flower water should be present but not aggressive — measure it, don't pour freely.

6. 6

   Roll out two-thirds of the dough to roughly 3mm thick and line a 24cm round baking pan, pressing it gently into the corners. Let the excess hang over the edge. Pour in the filling — it should come up nearly to the top of the crust.

7. 7

   Roll the remaining dough thin and cut it into strips about 1.5cm wide. Lay them in a lattice over the filling, then press the overhanging crust up over the strip ends to seal. Crimp the border with your thumb or the tines of a fork.

8. 8

   Bake at 160°C for about 70 minutes, until the top is deep golden and the filling has set with a slight, confident wobble in the center. If the crust darkens too fast, tent it loosely with foil.

9. 9

   Let it cool in the pan to room temperature, then refrigerate for several hours or overnight. Pastiera cuts clean only when fully chilled — serve it at room temperature with a dusting of powdered sugar over the top.

10. 10

    Pastiera is better the second day, when the wheat, ricotta, and citrus have finally agreed with each other.

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