
Recipe
Catfish fillets soaked in buttermilk, coated in ground pecans and cornmeal, and shallow-fried in cast iron at 175°C until the crust turns deep mahogany. The skillet fond becomes a pale buttermilk-Dijon pan sauce, and the plate is finished with creamed corn and quick-pickled green tomatoes for acidity against the rich, nutty crust.
29 ingredients
10 steps
Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, and peppercorns in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Put the green tomato slices in a heatproof container and pour the hot brine over them — they should be fully submerged. Let them sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, then transfer to the refrigerator to chill fully.
While the tomatoes pickle, submerge the catfish fillets in the buttermilk in a shallow dish. Let them rest for 20 minutes — the lactic acid begins to tenderize the protein without turning it mushy the way a longer acid bath would.
In a wide, shallow dish, combine the ground pecans, panko, cornmeal, salt, cayenne, and black pepper. Place the flour in a second dish. Remove a fillet from the buttermilk, let the excess drip off, dredge lightly in flour, then press firmly into the pecan mixture on both sides — press with the flat of your hand so the coating adheres in an even layer. Repeat with the remaining fillets.
In a cast-iron skillet, heat the oil to 175°C over medium heat. Use a thermometer — if the oil drops below 165°C the crust will absorb oil and turn greasy rather than crisp, and if it climbs past 185°C the pecans will scorch and taste bitter before the fish is done.
Carefully lower two fillets into the oil presentation-side down. Fry for 3 minutes per side, adjusting the heat to hold the oil in the 170–180°C range. The crust should be deep mahogany from the pecan oils browning. Transfer to a wire rack set over a sheet pan and hold in a 95°C oven while you fry the remaining two fillets. An instant-read thermometer in the thickest part of the fish should register 60°C.
Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of oil from the skillet, return to medium heat, and add the butter. When the foaming subsides, add the minced shallot and sweat for 60 seconds — keep the heat moderate so the milk solids in the butter don't brown, since you want a pale, creamy sauce, not a nut-brown one. Add the garlic paste and cook 15 seconds.
Whisk in the chicken stock, scraping up any fond from the pan bottom. Reduce by half — the target is a thin syrup that coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat, let the pan cool for 30 seconds, then whisk in the buttermilk and Dijon. If the pan is too hot the buttermilk will break and curdle, so work off heat. Stir in the lemon juice and taste — season in layers, adding salt only if the stock was genuinely low-sodium.
For the creamed corn, melt the butter in a separate skillet over medium heat. Add the diced shallot and cook until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the corn kernels and sauté for 4 minutes until they brighten and soften slightly. Pour in the heavy cream and simmer until it thickens and coats the kernels, about 3 minutes. Season with the salt.
To plate, spoon a band of creamed corn across the center of each plate. Set a catfish fillet on top and spoon the buttermilk pan sauce around the base, not over the crust — the crust stays crisp only where it isn't touched by liquid. Arrange two slices of pickled green tomato alongside and scatter the chives over the fish.
Serve immediately. The window between perfectly crisp and softly soggy is narrow once the crust meets ambient humidity, so plate and carry to the table without delay.
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