New England Clam Chowder

• 3 lb fresh cherrystone clams, scrubbed
• 2 cup water
• 1 bay leaf
• 4 oz thick-cut bacon, diced small
• 1 yellow onion, diced small
• 2 celery ribs, diced small
• 2 clove garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1.5 lb Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced half-inch
• 2 cup whole milk
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped
• sea salt, to taste
• black pepper, freshly ground, to taste
• fresh thyme sprigs, for garnish
• oyster crackers, for serving

1. 1

   Combine the clams, water, and bay leaf in a large pot. Cover and steam over medium-high heat until the clams open, about 8 minutes. Discard any that don't open. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve lined with a paper towel to catch any sand — grit will ruin the whole bowl.

2. 2

   Pick the clam meat from the shells, chop it roughly, and set aside. You should have about 3 cups of strained broth; top up with water if you're short.

3. 3

   In a clean Dutch oven, render the bacon over medium heat until crisp and the fat has pooled, about 6 minutes. A little patience here gives you better texture and flavor.

4. 4

   Add the onion and celery and cook until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook just until fragrant, about 30 seconds — garlic burns fast in hot bacon fat, so keep it moving.

5. 5

   Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir constantly for 2 minutes to cook out the raw starch taste. This roux is what gives the chowder body without a heavy paste feel.

6. 6

   Pour in the strained clam broth gradually, whisking to keep the roux smooth. Add the potatoes, bring to a gentle simmer, and cook uncovered until the potatoes are tender but still hold their shape, about 12 minutes.

7. 7

   Reduce the heat to low. Stir in the milk and cream, then the chopped clam meat and thyme. Warm through gently for about 3 minutes — if it boils, the cream can split and the clams will turn rubbery, so keep it just below a simmer.

8. 8

   Season with salt and pepper, tasting as you go. The clams and bacon carry salt already, so go lighter than you think at first. Ladle into bowls, finish with a thyme sprig, and pass the oyster crackers at the table.

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